dimanche 12 mai 2019

LETICIA, THE COLOMBIAN AMAZON

I think with delight how these various cities or towns enter my life, as the time progresses.
Suva, Fiji
Thursday Island
Kingston, Jamaica
Baracoa, Cuba
La Habana, Cuba
Muzquiz, Coahuila, Mexico
just to give you a sample ..
or the isolated Rapa Nui or reasonably isolated Leticia, Colombia
When I visited Iquitos in Peru many years ago, I was fascinated with a town downstream called Benjamin Constant and I think it was the name that captivated me and I wanted to visit it. Looking at the map at that time, I noticed Leticia on the Colombian side of the Amazon. Reading about it, one learned about the presence of narco traffickers and a general warning not to visit that area. 
After Colombia became safer to travel, I noticed that there are flights to Leticia on a regular basis from Bogota.
On an appropriate day I left Miami, spent hours at the Bogota airport domestic terminal (with hardly any facilities) and then on to Leticia. I was lucky to find Amazon Bed and Breakfast, a lovely hotel and the friendly manager. 
Very quickly I made friends. A french travel guide who introduced me to a Cuban music teacher at Puerto Narino. A shop keepers family I became friendly with. and then came the Indians
I was on my way out to Bogota when i saw a group of Indians sitting quietly in the departure lounge of the airport , I went and introduced myself to them, saying that I worked for their relatives in North America, soon we became friends and they invited me to come and visit them at their village along the Amazon. At least on two occasions I entered Brasil at Manaus and took the flight to Tabatinga which is contiguous to Leticia.
On this eighth visit to Leticia, the Indians were waiting for me and I was able to spend the days with them.
I was also lucky to meet Ismael the friendly manager of Waira Suites who made my stay at his hotel pleasant. My Cuban friend introduced me to the roadside grills which is the popular way the local people eat and my Indian friend accompanied me on trips along the amazon river.


Waira Suites and the view from my room.

 I was thinking of my optimistic optometrist friend in Miami who is a good photographer of birds in the Everglades when I watched this bird observing its preys
 There is a small island facing Leticia which is called Fantasy Island which is flooded during the high water levels
 It felt good to be with the local Indians who are beginning to trust me
 Palm weevil larvae called mogohohoi in these parts and suri in Peru were offered for breakfast.
I have eaten them fried, stuffed with cassava at a restaurant. My Indian friends assure me that these larvae are good for asthma or other respiratory problems, some indian tribes eat them alive and others cook them. Now they are being farmed for their nutritional qualities
 Breakfast at Waira Suites, Leticia, Colombia 
 The friendly manager of Waira Suites, Ismael

I consider it an honour that my Indian friends wanted to put these temporary tattoes on my hands. They know that I will come back,


 At the Esquina de Humos . the corner of smoke (from the many grills), I can have tasty fish, meat grilled in front of you. I see families coming to eat there and they did a brisk business packaging for families to eat at home. This is the affordable eating out for many families as the tourist restaurants are unethically high priced.

Location of Leticia, Colombia and Tabatinga, Brasil which are contiguous with a porous border.



THE AMAZON IS NOT THAT FAR AWAY AND I WILL BE BACK TO SEE MY INDIAN FRIENDS 

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