THE MELLAH OF MARRAKECH, THE JEWISH QUARTER OF MARRAKECH MOROCCO

 On my first full day in Marrakech I decided to visit and savour the Jewish Quarter or MELLAH of Marrakech. I was staying at a Riad in the Medina and it was a short walk to the Mellah. 

On the way over there I could greet my new friends, Fruit Juice Stall 50 at Djemma al Fina, Yassin at Cafe Berber..

It is a short walk through a covered walkway selling the usual tchotchkes (souvenirs etc). A man was eating while listening to a religious broadcast. An african migrant has been dressed up in fancy clothes guarding the upscale restaurant, a shop selling senses de Marrakech possibly a good place to buy perfumes and fresheners. Past the Bahia Palace one enters the Mellah.

The feelings are similar. Walking along the streets of Lisboa and thinking of the jewish presence there in the 16th century, the narrow Jew Street of Mattancherry, Parur or Ernakulum, and so many other places where Jews are but a memory but the air thick with history. Nowhere is more evident than at the Mellah in Marrakech (I have not visited the one in Fes the royal capital). I would peek into the rooms that once held shabbat dinners and an old man led me into his house where one room had been left as it was when the last jewish resident left for Israel. There was a mezuzah on the door, the mantle on one side of the room had framed photos of the owners, now ageing into oblivion, a ketubah on the wall. the table was large and was covered with finery, as if it is ready for shabbat dinner. 

This would have been repeated in every single one of these houses now occupied by moroccans. The synagogue evoked memories of such wonderful synagogues elsewhere in the vanished jewish world.

The lack of animosity towards Jews of these muslims now who live in the Mellah (mostly berber) is remarkable and I found groups of young people speaking a passable Hebrew getting ready for the Israeli tourists. Impressive..

Personally, a beautiful experience. I will not look at Morocco and Moroccans with the same world view of a vision as I held before (influenced by living in France)

I return your salaam with equal friendliness, my dear Moroccan brothers..

THE JEWISH CEMETERY OF MARRAKECH. SHABBAT SHALOM TO ALL MY RELATIVES REGARDLESS OF THEIR RELIGION

I have visited various Jewish cemeteries around the world where only memories linger on in the streets where Jewish people lived and died for hundreds of years. 

Penang, Malaysia 

Cochin, India (including Mala)

Kingston, Jamaica 

Havana, Cuba

Iquitos, Peru

As shabbat was approaching I wanted to visit the Jewish Cemetery of Marrakech where a very large prosperous community once lived. Most of the Jews migrated to Israel and France after the establishment of Israel. The local Berber people while being Muslim were not antagonistic towards Jews but the politicians were Arab and Muslim and sided with their brethren in condemning Israel

What a glorious history is the one here. Many of the learned Rabbis are buried here, only they get shrines and all other hundreds of sites are just plain tombs with nothing to distinguish. We very seldom hear about the great rabbis of Morocco, where in the west we are so aware of the Great Hassidim of the past. 

Israel and Morocco has reopened their relationships and there are two daily flights between Tel Aviv and Marrakech and every one, especially the Berbers, are excited about the hordes of Israelis who would descend upon them. Many of the small shop keepers begged me to teach them a few words of Hebrew, Muslims welcoming Jews back, a good feeling indeed and unique to Morocco and heartwarming.

So to my mishpochah every where in the world, Peace be with us, our people and Israel.

special burial site for the Cohanim

On a personal note, I am happy to see this friendship between Muslim Berber and Israel as well as the Emirati, Kuwaiti and Bahraini, Sudanese people. These relationship would set a stage to heal the years of wounds and also soothe the memories of Jewish lives lead in these parts. The Jewish histories of both Morocco and Iran stand out in their glory. 

Shabbat Shalom

9 Kislev 5782

 

TODAY IS A GOOD DAY TO SMILE.... YOU WILL LOOK FOR ME AND I WILL BE GONE , I KNOW MY SOUL

Today has been a lovely day

No one to disturb my peace, near and far 

A nice sensation when one is able to help, the philanthropy of time and knowledge

a chat about Balkan memories 

I wrote to my sister: If something were to happen to me tomorrow, I will not mind, like that song La Belle Dame sans regrets

Nice to make some difference in some other people's lives. Delacroix said: the greatest human attribute is to relieve pain

In my case, relief of anxiety, sorrow, depression and bring a drop of joy into their lives.

I have always believed and the Indians have reinforced that belief, what goodness you do, return to you (but not do things so that good things happen to you)

I was listening to some Blues Music and enjoying it fully.

The tragedy of Slavery and imposed faith gave us Music of Africa: Gospel Music, then the Blues, then Jazz, then Rock Music.. on and on.. Imagine USA CUBA BRASIL without the African people..  one wise Italian said to me on my first visit to Provincetown: take Jews and Blacks out of USA and you can turn this country into a cemetery..

The blues reflect what you are feeling in your heart. I was feeling good because of my actions but that makes you more aware of the tragedies and sadness the great singers are hollering about.

It was at that time Air Maroc called 

Sorry your flight has to be cancelled 

I was not perturbed at all 

I did my own investigations, there are other ways to get to my destination

But that would need the collaboration and cooperation of the Airline agent that would be on the phone

I was already feeling euphoric

Hello, i would really like your help

Could you route me through Madrid Barajas and give me enough time to go from one terminal, enjoy some tapas in the Dali Lounge 

Let me see what can I see on line. we chatted. His name was John. one of the best agents that i have spoken on line. Remember in whatever culture you have to learn to transact the symbols, especially the interactions are of short duration and you do not want to rub anyone up the wrong way. 

We have no seats available to redeem for miles that day but will make an exception for you and will assign you to seat 7A

Thank you , John

There would have been no point in worrying about whether or not my flight was leaving on the day of departure or the next or whether i would miss out on the snake charmers and water carriers in the shadow of the tall minarets at my destination.

That moment, a song by Sam T, an ancient blues song came on the Youtube video

I know my soul

a lot of people have recorded it and I have heard BB King singing that song

There is nothing that can lift you up to this euphoric mood than the right song at the right moment. 

This is exactly the song I needed to hear 

The feeling was wonderful 

here are the lyrics 

One day you will look for me, and I will be gone 

The best thing the best gift in life is the gift of TIME, those of our friends and lovers who are willing to give us their time , to spend together 

Thank You in australia   Merci Beaucoup in France. Gracias in Cuba and Obrigado in Brasil

You all added a little shine to my life 

If you like The Blues, you have to like BB King , here is a video from 1974 when he was touring Africa

Today has been a good day .