THE
NEW WORLD ORDER HAS ARRIVED AND THE PERSIAN GULF STATES HAVE THEIR VIEW, AND
ITS INTERNATIONAL IMPLICATIONS
Recently
I have been spending short spurts of time in QATAR, mainly because of my love
for flying the world’s best airline, Qatar Airways, managed with incredible
efficiency and comfort by HE Akbar al Bakr.
The
observations below are those of an anthropologist, just asking WHY as he
should, rather than accepting a sociological answer to the situation in the
Gulf States and other developing nations such as Malaysia and Singapore,
spreading slowly elsewhere but not in the West, with its centuries old
understanding of FREEDOM and DIGNITY, however faulty it may seem lately, with
elections of demagogue stirring up fear of the imaginary loss of these noble
qualities of the West.
(The flight to Egypt was empty, the flight from Egypt was very full: a good metaphor)
Qataris
are virtually invisible. Men look so elegant in their traditional dresses, like
peacocks whereas the beauty of women is hidden in the all-encompassing black
coverings.
Mostly
invisible are also the European top management.
Middle
management, seem to be completely ASIAN or other unfortunate Arabs, born in
their own countries or in Qatar, but treated as if they had just arrived in
town, the Asian contingent, from doormen to limousine drivers, and all other
itinerant and necessary jobs, seem heavy on the Filipinos, followed by Indians.
Bangladeshis seem to occupy the lowest rung. A smattering of Africans could be
appropriately seen, from Kenya, Uganda etc.
Everywhere
you look, healthy young men, mostly brown in colour, dominate the scenery.
(in small settlements like this one along the Red Sea, many Jewish traders lived and traded; and there were stories of Jewish traders traveling to Cochin in India from places like the one above)
(The Red Sea from the Air, somewhere near Moses might have passed through?)
A
modified version can be seen and experienced in Malaysia and Singapore, where
there is a local south Indian population and a large North Indian expatriate,
middle management population. Bangladeshis, Indonesians and Nepalese seem to
the underdogs and the Filipino presence is heavily feminine. The separation of THEM
and US does not seem as blatant as in the Gulf States, with the definite
exception of the Sultanate of Oman where I suspect the ambiance to be the best,
as Omanis are visible in the society.
Something
similar, one can argue, exists in the USA or Europe, but the “indentured” there
have rights, and the discrimination is not coded into the law. As Bernard
Lewis, the elder statesman historian of Islam has repeatedly stated: Islamic in
essence involves the state, whereas Christendom had ceased to exist five
hundred years ago at the end of the dark ages (perhaps that is why we called
them the dark ages?) and now Christianity is separated from the State and in
none of the Christian countries, would an elected Official be sent to prison,
despite the prosecutors asking for probation, because he, a Christian, quoted
the Quran, the holy book of the majority Muslim population he was governing, in
the Islamic Republic of Indonesia. Cartesian philosophy of the Renaissance
(there is a reason for calling this period a Renaissance, rebirth) separate the
mind and the body, gave the Church authority over the soul and the every day
matters were taken care by the civic society. Such a separation is yet to
appear in the thriving (Qatar, UAE) Muslim societies, struggling economies
(Malaysia, Indonesia, Egypt) or failed Muslim states such as Bangladesh,
Pakistan, Somalia, Yemen, Sudan, Iraq, Syria, and Libya …
I
make a point of chatting or extracting the interesting stories behind all these
new order indentured workers. An unemployed IT worker from Calicut now drives
limousine for a hotel lamented: The salary here in Qatar is good, but life is
not enjoyable; but the life in Dubai and Abu Dhabi are enjoyable.
I
must say here that I prefer my stopovers to be rather in Doha than Dubai or Abu
Dhabi, but I am writing down what I can glean from conversations.
I
had a chance to visit the Al Safwa First Class Lounge at Hamad International
Airport a couple of times recently and it has to be the best airport Lounge in
the world, having experienced excellent lounges in Paris, London, Sydney and
New York. Mostly young Asians, brown in colour, milled around, attentively
serving excellent food and wine. The clientele was predominantly Arab, as this
lounge serves customers flying short haul First Class as medium haul (such as
the 787 to Brussels or the long haul A350 do not have First Class cabins but
only Business Class cabins, despite them being superior to the short haul First
Class on AB20). I was on my way to Alexandria, a short flight serviced by an
Airbus 320, but I was privileged to experience the Al Safwa lounge.
I
cannot come to term with the excellent service, efficiency, distinction of
class without discrimination of the workers, or even try and explain it, I
enjoy it so much, flying Qatar Airways and the service it offers, which makes
the USA and Europe based airlines look like Bullock Carts of last century.
Haraz,
a polite Indonesian served me Samak Harra, a Lebanese chili fish dish, brought
me a glass of Vueve Cliquot La Grand Dame champagne.
Qatar
airways gives you back a disproportionately large amount of returns for your
ticket, they are concerned about the passengers welfare unlike the Western
Airlines interested in the welfare of their stock holders.
The
first class check in is a dedicated, no line set up, where you sit as if in an
office attended by two agents, labeling your bags and printing out your
boarding pass/es. Coffee and Dates are offered and you go through a dedicated
Immigration and Security line, the least painful crossing of the borders if
there was one.
The
Lounge al safwa is opulent as well as spacious. Multitudes of young men and
women attend to your, serving food and drinks.
To
solely blame the West for oppression or marginalization in countries which were
once their colonies (Don’t forget both Qatar, UAE and Oman were all protected
by the British Crown): India by the British, Indonesia by the Dutch, Egypt,
Sudan, Syria, West Bank (British and French), does not seem to be fully
correct. I will give you an account of what happened when I tried to do a
simple transit at the small, chaotic, unsafe airport at Alexandria, Egypt.
The
reason for transiting through Casablanca CMN in Morocco or Cairo CAI or
Alexandria HBE in Egypt or Colombo CMB is a simple one: Qatar Airways offers
excellent business Class fares if you commence your journeys in these Cs Cairo
Casablanca Colombo.
Ms.
A was the Cabin supervisor and had told her that I was doing a transit at HBE.
She informed QR staff Mohammed al Bakr as well as Wael Al Mamlouk of the
situation and they were very helpful. But not all people were as knowledgeable
or helpful as the two employees of QR. The person who was supposed to walk me
through the process of Immigration and Customs, was not that knowledgeable and
after clearing the incoming immigration he just pointed out to me the outgoing
Immigration and that is when the drama began.
In
Egypt the immigration and Customs officers all resemble naval officers in their
uniform, the immigration agent, leads me into an office, where an elderly gent,
also in naval uniform, sat smoking cigars and chewing on some snacks. Sit down,
said a young man in jeans and tee shirt, politely in English.
The
older man had his grey hair dyed a deep black and had a look of disenchantment
with the world. In fact, he fitted so well into the caricature of a petty
official in a developing or poor country, picture perfectly. He wanted to know,
he spoke only Arabic and the young man in jeans translated, how was that I was
standing in front of him, as my passport had no stamps of entry into Egypt and
thus technically I am not in Egypt? Why are you coming to Alexandria this
glorious city just for a few minutes? None of them were convinced even after my
explanation and they wanted to know where stamps in my passport were from:
Brussels, where is that? While they were conducting this conversation in this
insane fashion, they would turn to me and say: Don’t worry everything would be all
right. I caught a glimpse of Wael al Mamlouk of Qatar Airways; he joined in the
friendly verbal fray while assuring me that the aircraft will not leave without
me.
This
is frightening, not of the present situation I found myself in, but of the mob
fury or lack of logic when the general education is so low, and thought of the
Governor of Jakarta facing denouncement demanding his head for quoting (not quoting)
from Quran.
(The sun is setting over Alexandria airport)
This
is the fact that Egypt puts out to the world. The elderly gent tosses my
passport with a purposeful dramatic movement and Wael walks me past immigration officers
and the security is lax, and as the sun was setting I was able to board the
flight to Doha.
I
felt a great sense of relief.
Why
did the grand civilization, which gave us Pyramids at Giza, Moses end up like
this?
(A
lesson might be learned from 1492 Spain. By kicking out Jews or other educated
people and hard workers out of your country, you can easily and quickly can
descend into poverty and backwardness. Something similar is happening in
Malaysia, where 1 million of its educated young are working in Singapore).
I
started writing this blog about the New World Order, and I conclude with this:
The
world is an unequal place, becoming more so, as those few with aptitudes and capacity
concentrate themselves in safe and smaller geographical pockets.
I
was well attended by Ms. A from Roumanie, and arrived safely to the safety of
the Al Mourjan Lounge at Doha 3 hours later.