samedi 25 mai 2019

A VISITOR FROM THE SOVEREIGN DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF REGLA

For those wondering about the above named entity, it is not the newest nation in Africa but perhaps it is one of the oldest in the Western Hemisphere..

En otros contextos esta religión cubana de origen africano y que hemos documentado a lo largo de más de 30 años, es denominada “Religión Lucumí”, “Regla de Osha”, “Regla de Ifá”, “Religión de los Orishas” o “Santería”. Nosotros nos referimos a ella como “La Religión Osha-Ifá”.

Regla is a small township which lies across the bay from the City of Havana. A quaint launch connects the old with the new, the modern with the ancestral.
A church dedicated to the Virgin de Regla attract hundreds of faithful. But Regla is the home of the Cuban Religion of African Origin . OSHA IFA
While the slaves brought over from Africa were forced to adopt the "white man's" religion, only in Cuba especially in its epicentres you see white man who have adopted the 'black man's" religion. Most Cubans are aware of the pantheon of the Orishas who represent Health Life and Death in every day life.
I had a visitor from the Sovereign state of mind of REGLA.. Ernesto Valdes who had worked for the last 30 years on this subject, after graduating in Anthropology from the University in Leningrad (the current day St Petersburg). He jokes, not unreasonably enough, that all his teachers were Jews!

We walked over a little restaurant which boasts of various cuisines (much more like dishes) from other Latin American country. My friend was eager to try la bandeja Paisa (the national dish of Antioquia in Colombia)

I settled for a a humble vegetarian dish..
I am a novice at what he is an expert at. he is a humble man and we hope to cultivate each other's friendship. He has invited me to his temple at his home in Regla, something very important I feel that I must do.

We continued our conversations and he would instruct me in various plants that we encountered along the walking path right in the middle of the city.
This religion is much about HELING (a visiting anthropologist from Houston, reiterated that all religions are about Healing). Each of the plants he pointed out, he had a spiritual connection as an explanation.
This plant is good for gastritis and a tea before going to bed calms you down.
The plant he was pointing out was OREGANO, but to him the symbolism was to Obatala one of the Orishas and thought to be the creator of human bodies.
For those of us interested in human microbiome, we know that Oregano is good to combat Helicobacter Pylori which is seen as causative of gastritis and peptic ulcer disease.

He was very keen on a plant growing by the roadside, he hadd seen it before at certain altitudes and humidity, and the plant is known in Cuba as Corazon de Hombre even though this medicinal plant is widely spread all throughout the tropical regions.

This plant has distinct heart shaped leaves appearing very fresh and very translucent stems. He was so happy to have encountered this plant far away from its habitat.

I wanted to find out who might have planted these plants at the entrance to the alley that leads to my apartment.

PS
this is not related to the blog, perhaps it is .
The building where my apartment is situated was built and owned by a polish jew by the name of Itzhak Gurewich .

RETURNING TO HAVANA FULL OF EXPECTATIONS MAY 2019

I was ready to return to Cuba after a longer than usual stay in Miami. 
 I always want to get to the airport at Miami earlier than necessary so that I can relax at the Flagship Lounge of the American Airlines.
 Salmon, onions, baby spinach, muesli with yoghurt and of course Sunday New York Times..

 I am ready for you, my precious island, CUBA
 I travel around the world with just hand luggage but not to Cuba! a short distance away from Miami. This time, I had three checked bags.. and a slight anxiety about Cuban Customs but all went well. Two delightful older ladies checked my bag for food (no fresh food but lots of canned foods and biscuits and sardines and those kinds of things)
 My faithful driver friend was waiting and nice help with suitcases weighing 50 lbs each ..
 and his faithful Oldsmobile..
 Nice to see the familiar buildings on the approach to the house where the Landlady (who lives far away) waiting with prepared Lunch (fish, rice, beans and a large jug of fresh cuban coffee)
 Cubans in the island (please do not compare them to Cubans living in Miami) are incredibly caring and show great sense of solidarity to help you and alleviate your problems in times of need.
 It is always nice to walk past relics of old glory of Havana ..
 My flat is only one block away from the Malecon and each day I make sure that i catch the tender rays of the fading sun. At this time of the year, sun sets late and it is nearly 9 pm, that I return home, after stopping to check messages on wifi enabled (international)telephone. These days communications have become very easy in Cuba and I have Internet available in my Cuban telephone. It has completely changed my life routine in Havana.


 The parque at the corner of Linea and L, where is there is wifi
 a slow walk up to Havana Libre where the Liquor store is open until 845 pm (dont expect to be served at 8 46 pm!). I was able to get a nice Sauvignon Blanc from Cataluyna.
Back home, the house is under the protection of OCHUN, the youngest of the Orisha pantheon .
One sleeps well under her careful protection..

WELCOME HOME..

mardi 14 mai 2019

A BRIGHT SUNNY DAY IN MIAMI

I am spending a few days in Miami. and it feels strange, as I am not used to being here as a person who lives here (which I did as a student and a trainee doctor) or a visitor ( I know Miami well).
But the feeling is that of an expatriate returning home and not quite fitting in. I have my sister here and my best friend also lives here, but I have noticed that I am not the same person as I am when I travel
In Burma or Cambodia I am so eager to make new friends and on each visit I come home loaded with memories of new friends whereas in Miami, I do not go out of my way to make new friends and the new friends I do make are not serendipitous but come through well known channels. I did make two new friends this visit and met some new people, who were left outside my Dunbar circle (of intimacy). Perhaps it is the quality and time to be spent. I am able to spend more time with friends in Asia and also it is quality time since we do not compare each other in terms of money status or social standing or posessions.
I do not have a car or a house or a TV, that makes me homeless in the USA but that has nothing to do with my interactions in Cambodia or Burma.
But I still enjoy the latin atmosphere of Miami..





If you ask me what is the best thing about Miami? for me?
I have no doubt 
the answer is 
Cuba 
I am just one hour away from my favourite island and my favourite city, San Cristobal de la Habana now celebrating 500th anniversary of its founding.

MEMORIES OF DAYS IN RAPA NUI EASTER ISLAND ISLA DE PASCUA

I am very grateful that I have visited Rapa Nui four times so far and with each time my connection with the land and the people have increased.
this last visit in February 2019 (the one before was in November 2017, 15 months earlier) was particularly important in that i connected with some special people and began to feel special relationship with the native people of the island.
Every time I am at the British Museum I do not fail to pay homage to the (stolen) Moai displayed and hope one day it will return to its natural place in Rapa Nui.
Collected during the HMS Topaze expedition to Rapa Nui (captained by Powell) in 1868 and presented to Queen Victoria by the Lords of the Admiralty. She then gifted it to the British Museum in 1869.

lundi 13 mai 2019

TOURIST VS TRAVELLER WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE

Many a travel writer would like to offer the differences in attitudes and behaviour of a tourist in comparison to a traveller and there are lists of differences that one could find in various articles.
I am in general happy that people have PUSHED or PULLED out of their countries to visit other places. Visiting a place does not mean that you are going to learn much about the culture of that place but you are exposed to something else than the routine for you.
While I was in the Amazon, observing the groups of Colombian tourists at the Waira Hotel, i thought to add yet another distinction between Tourists and Travellers.
A TOURIST ventures out, goes back home thinking how good a life it is at HOME  compared to the poor souls he had just visited. He or She is usually PUSHED out of her situation at home by local and selfish forces.
A TRAVELLER appreciates how much of a good life the people lead in the places he visits. He is usually PULLED by the places he visits.

SLOW BOAT TO MANAUS

I wanted to spend a day exploring the small towns along the Amazon with my Tikuna Indian friends. We set off after breakfast from Leticia, Colombia 
I had been offered the larvae of palm weevil (siri, mogohohoi) but I politely declined as I did not wish to have gastrointestinal problems during the day of exploration.

Leticia is a small town and it takes only five minutes to walk down to the boat jetty (which changes location according to the water level of the river).
A short interchange and a boatman (they say pique pique for these same boats) agreed to take us for one dollar each to the Brasilian town of Tabatinga.


It was an overcast and the sky was full of angry clouds and I knew it would pour torrentially but it did not bother me, after all we are in the biggest rainforest in the planet and they need water..
 we waited at the boat dock at Tabatinga for a fast boat to Benjamin Constant. You pay (5 dollars each) and take a number and when the boat is full you are ready to leave, usually the boats accomodate 10 to 15 passengers and there is fair bit of traffic between these two small towns

Tabatinga is a non descript town. While Leticia has tourist infrastructure and fair amount of tourists, Tabatinga does not get any tourists and it is also less safe than Leticia.
Until recently the health clinic at Tabatinga had 7 Cuban doctors but the ultraconservative new leader had voiced an opposition to Cuban presence so the Doctors withdrew and the town is left without any sort of medical attention (4 peruvian doctors are left behind).
Very interesting to watch the people who get on the boat. Humble people with the entire continents written on their faces and a few Indians.

After a few minutes the boat leaves the mighty Amazon and turns into River Yuvary which is also a gigantic river. Half an hour later we are at Benjamin Constant. I could recognize the polyclinic buildings from far (until recently they had two cuban doctors)
 Benjamin Constant is the name of this small town. I had known of the existence of this town for a long time and I have to say that this is my fourth or fifth visit to town. the main attraction in town for me (before it was my Cuban doctor friends in addition to ) is the museum of the Tikuna people and i had been friendly with the old curator who was very active and you can always expect to meet a diverse group of people there. the new person in charge was not present and you can already see the deterioration of the museum, what a pity.
It is worthwhile coming to Benjamin Constant just for the museum but make sure that the curator (not really, the man with the key, and pay his 2.5 dollars)

This building always intrigued me, looked a portugese colonial architecture in this town of modern shacks and soul less buildings.
EU amo BENJAMIN .  that is what they call this town, Benjamin..  If you are interested in how this town came to be called Benjamin Constant, Wikipedia has the story...
 Another pique pique and the destination is ISLANDIA in Peru
Once again a dollar each would take you along the banks of the river which is already Peruvian, to the hamlet of Islandia in Peru. Remember you have to use Pesos in Colombia, Reis in Brasil and Sole in Peru
Floating shacks some of them selling gasoline, which is expensive.
It did not take us long to get to Islandia.
This is my third visit to Islandia and the welcoming features of the church was familiar.


It was fun walking in the rain through the raised pathways of this town which is completely on water.
Looking for a place to have lunch turned out to be tedious as few shacks offered chicken and i was adamant that i wanted fish, after all we are surrounded by water..
 managed to find a place, the chef coming over from his place of rest across the pathway, and offered us a lunch menu of soup, fish, rice and lemonade, less than 3 dollars each.


 this fish is from the river and i also had a piece of the fish from the lake. Indians prefer to eat the fish from the lake, they say it is healthier
 Like the Israelis and their Zatar, FARINA is ever present, Indians love it and they add it to every thing including drinks, soups, main meals and they love its crunchy taste.
It began to rain
wonderful amazon rain 
sheets and sheets of it 
i was in no hurry 
i had a piece of fish a little rice and lemonade 
to watch the rain 
when it rain the river becomes empty of the small crafts

I truly enjoyed it .. the rain of the amazonian tropics
once the rain stopped, time to walk around the village which is rather small.
what is a Jew (me) and a Tikuna indian who prays to the spirits of the jungle doing inside the church?
I like to enter these little churches in out of the way places
I remember a line from a movie 
More ubiquitous than Coca Cola...
but that may no longer be true..
Amazon is being flooded with Industrial soft drinks and packaged foods and Obesity is setting in.. While you are here you know that Obesity is caused by soft drinks and preserved foods..
 One of my responsibilities as a Global Health doctor is to alert the Indigenous people of the dangers of these soft drinks. Many Tikuna indians reject soft drinks knowing what it does to human bodies.
 It was time to go back to Benjamin Constant.



The river was not bumpy even for a small boat, i appreciated the calm ride and soon we were back in Benjamin 


as we were coming into Benjamin, I caught sight of the giant boat slowly moving into the berth, yes it was the slow boat to Manaus. It might have left Tabatinga early in the morning and will go down stream to Manaus perhaps to reach there in 7 or 8 days. There is a fast boat that makes the journey in 36-48 hours also, but i have always chosen to fly the route from Tabatinga to Manaus (one hour).

When I was a high school student, I remember taking a boat from Singapore to Miri in Kuching and then Miri in Sarawak. It always brought back to me the romance of travel of Somerset Maugham. 
This huge brother of our little boat did not evoke any romantic notions in me..every one knows of the reality of slow boats along the amazon river, which are strictly practical.

Soon after we caught a ferry back to Tabatinga
One in Tabatinga, walked around a little bit in their shops selling tchochkes from china and the local stuff and many colombians from Leticia come to Tabatinga to shop because the goods are cheaper in Brasil than in Colombia (Leticia)

It was a wonderful days in the waters of the Amazon, the mightiest waterway on this planet with children of the forest to explain their view of their world..


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