lundi 22 août 2022

DO NOT SEARCH FOR PEOPLE TO MEET, THOSE WHO YOU NEED TO MEET WILL COME YOUR WAY, SAID MY MESKWAKIA TEACHER

 My introduction to the world of Native American people propitiously began with the traditional tribe of MESKWAKIA and I have to be grateful to them, as I ended up dedicating my medical professional life to the prevention and treatment of Chronic Diseases among the Indigenous peoples of the world.

Among other words of wisdom, "Dr" Brown imparted were: As long as you are a good person, you do not need to try and understand the ill behaviour of other people (I had asked her about someone in Australia). She also said: Do not waste your time looking for people to meet , as the people whom you need to meet will come your way.

It has turned out to be true as recent as the last week when I was sitting in seat 2 A on an Iberia airlines flight to Marrakech after an overnight (good and comfortable) flight, also on Iberia, from Tel Aviv to Madrid.

Somehow we began talking about aviation, our favourite airlines and countries in the Gulf Region they come from. I did not ask him of his profession, neither did he of my occupation. As the plane was descending into Marrakech in Morocco, I had the impulse to give him my card, and introduced ourselves by name. He is from an European country and commuting between his homes as he works from home. As he left the aircraft he said, i will send you a message on your  account which I received a couple of hours later as I was settling into my riad in Marrakech near the Djem al Fina square crowded with tourists and moroccan families .

The message read: If you are free tomorrow night, please have dinner at my home. I will send you the address and the time for a repas later.

I had a bottle of Spanish Wine nothing special to write home about, a Familia Torres Verdejo 2021, which had a rating of 3.7/5 on Vivino app, the lower limit of drinkability for most people!

the evening was still warm, remember we were only a few hundred kilometers away from the Sahara, i walked along the Medina and the souks and then on to the broas derb (street) of the Kasbah near the Palace. during the 20 minute walk I was greeted by almost every moroccan with whom I made eye contact, and they all said. WELCOME .. a happy people, a friendly people, mostly Berber so different from their Arab brothers..


It was interesting to note that as we approached the kasbah the roads became much broader, at other centuries, armed vehicles had to be transported through these alleyways? 


The entrance to the house gave no clue to what lay beyond. A narrow pathway and another long passage led to the centre of the house. Riad is a general term used for house, even though the original meaning is Garden. this Riad did really have a garden.

nothing but but surprises awaited me as i toured, toured is the word as i had many corners and nooks to discover.


Story about the house slowly unfolded as I was admiring the landscaping and noting the various tropical plants and palms. The finished production of rehabilitation of this 400 year old Riad was the labour of his wife who spent nearly 5 years procuring and overseeing the decoration of this house which had been in disuse over a century.

The position of the riad so close to the palace and its sumptuousness indicated that a high ranking courtier may have occupied this house and fallen into neglect as he or his position fell out of the Royal favour. In any case, the lady of the house had spent nearly five years to bring the riad back to its splendour while modernizing it without forgetting its moroccan roots.


I noticed the star of david in the centre of the tray and was informed that many of the jewish memorabilia left behind when the moroccan jews left en masse for Israel and France and Canada, are to be found for sale in the multitudes of antique stores in the alleys of the medina. 

The host was gracious, and our conversation continued about lifestyles, existential questions arising out of it, the changing importance of objects and concepts as we progress through our lives.



Nibbles, or as we call them in Australia, savouries, o aperitif began showing up and this called for a drink, obviament/e!


The rating for this wine was 4.3, a feat very seldom achieved by wines. This is also a lesson that the quality of wine depends upon so many factors that if you just go by the price alone, it usually does not have a good correlation with the drinkability of the wine.

I requested a less sweet wine and the host obliged and it was a delectable one.. Both wines were from France, but the palate is my own..


Our conversation flitted from the geography of Europe and the Middle East .. the austrian alps near Klagenfort, the wines of Slovenia, and we dissected the cultural aspects of certain nationalities, with due respect of course.

It was at that time he asked me, what is that I do? I made it brief, I am a Doctor without Borders, trying to do a little bit of Humanitarian medicine within my own capacities.

He explained that he has been in the field of finance and spends half the year in the Middle East and the other half in Europe with more and more arrivals in Marrakech as the Riad has bloomed into an intimate residence.

the night had fallen and the ambiance of the riad lit up to a dream like existence. 

He had sent me a message to say that if i am with friends they are also welcome at the dinner. There were only two of us at dinner as his wife was away in Europe doing a course in Calligraphy.

The words of "Dr" Brown of the Meskwakia rang in my ears: here i am in Marrakech Morocco and about to have dinner with a person, with whom a fluid conversation about the world flows and there were no points of discontent or conflict in our world views even if we were in two different, very different, worlds of endeavours.

With my close friends M and G W, we have long conversations but we have a long history of personally shared and professional curiosities as well as sharing of a world view of our ancestors. 

With him, whom I had just met, a good feeling of friendship formed very quickly  and that allowed us to talk very freely not only about our own emotions (for example, my deep feelings for the people of Iran and his admiration for the people among whom he works). Israel Cuba all put in an appearance but one thing about this conversation was that we were celebrating life and the planet rather than complaining about what is happening around the world. Two grateful people, surrounded by the friendliness of the country we were in, Morocco, and about to be served a very healthy and tasty dinner, made with much love and care by the Berber lady in charge of the kitchen and served to us by the Berber man in charge of the affairs of the Riad. 

I did not envy his lifestyle nor did he of mine but we both respected each others lifestyle which had afforded us plenty of stories to tell: of men and nationalities, flights and cities and food and wine. I truly wished my dear friends and brothers: MGW and SST/A and EW were here enjoying this air and the soon to come food !








three hours had already passed and it was time for me to look around the house.













I was shown a large entrance to a Hamam, now fully renovated , said to be the oldest hamam in Marrakech.. 
what a wonderful residence, now as well as four hundred years ago!
I am glad I had a chance to enjoy the ambiance along with a wonderful conversation on a balmy night in Marrakech, Morocco.
To both the city and the host, I know we will meet again..



I was given a lift back to Djem al Fina, where despite the late hour, all places were crowded and the joy was in the air .
I felt good being in Marrakech





dimanche 7 août 2022

CUBA AND MALAYSIA AND NOW IRAN SO MUCH OF MY HEART IS TETHERED TO THESE COUNTRIES ..

 The morning was still young, a text message arrives from Kuala Lumpur, do you have time to talk? it said 


It was KO, the former Malaysian ambassador to Cuba. We became friends in Havana and had been able to continue our friendship with chats and also brief visits while I was in KL, pre-covid.

I was so excited about the news he had to tell me .

Cuba and Malaysia have been close friends ever since Malaysia became an independent country from the British rule.


the long term PM of Malaysia, Mahathir, did not kowtow to USA demands and that earned him the respect of Fidel. 

The previous ambassador was Mr J S a very pleasant representative of Malaysia who currently is its ambassador in Thailand.



The Cuba connection had also led me to become friends with three consecutive Cuban ambassadors to Malaysia with whom I could share some light moments during my visits to Malaysia. Pedro is in Sao Paolo, Carlos in Washington DC and Ibete, I am not sure where is her new posting. 

So Cuba and Malaysia strengthened each other in my heart, two countries so different but with a belief in friendship. I am also lucky that my circle of friends in KL began to grow as well.



Ho, champion GO player, a connoisseur of Films and ex-President of Mahler Society of Malaysia

My closest friend who recently graduated with a PhD from Monash Malaysia  Yong Mun Ching 

and the entertaining Mr A with a load of talent in the world of Media.

An Old love was kindled , in KL, that of PERSIA which had begun in childhood when my father returning from Abadan said: Persian is a most beautiful language, there are 32 ways to express Smile in that language. I was smitten ..

 YMC who was to become a very close friend, not only introduced me to the Yoga Sutras of Patanjali but also rekindled a love for Persian Literature .. she gave me a copy of Shanameh and we talked about Rumi.

When Mr A cooked us an AWADI dinner I realized that this prince of a man was descended from actual princes of the Moghul Court, Pesians who ruled India for 500 years.. 

NM came from Karaj to KL bringing poems of Shamlou, Farough F, Soheil Nafisi and the movies of so many excellent directors..

She also brought Hafez.. to our consciousness, the most widely consulted book in Iran much to the dismay of the Mullahs.

So Kuala Lumpur was bringing me closer to Iran which was a magical mystical dream from childhood.

2011 was a good year .. Ashgar Farhadi and The Separation ..

Mr Ho started traveling to Tehran to pick up Iranian movies for Malaysian audiences. Makhmalbouf. Panahi (his White Baloon was the first Iranian movie that I consciously watched and absorbed).

In KL, my love for Iran strengthened. I really have to thank NM..

( i am listening to Mohsen Yeganeh ..Behet Ghol Midam)

Just a day or two ago, I was thinking of Ambassador OK, whom I have not seen 2019. American Indians say, things do not happen without a reason, it is just that we are not smart enough to figure it out.

Do you have time to talk, Dr S ?

I am never too busy for my friends 

He then teased me , just guess where I am being posted, starting mid- September?

Dont tell me where but give me just one clue.. He did and I said:

Dont tell me you are going to IRAN 

He said, yes , I am going to Iran and I wanted you to know because i know you love Iran . I hope you will help me promote Malaysia in a good way in Iran 

I was so so excited

Iran one step closer to my heart. Even if I cannot visit that beautiful country under the current circumstances here is a chance for me to play a small part in Malaysia-Iran relationship, considered a very important one (historically and diplomatically)

Immediately i got to work, Few years years earlier, Dr Tan of the Cheng Ho society had asked me whether I could lead an expedition to Hormuz island where the indefatigable Chinese Admiral had stayed on his voyages to the Persian Gulf and East Africa. (Long before Europeans "discovered" sea routes to the East). There must be some connection, trade wise and also the common religion (interesting to note that both Iranians and Malays are converted Muslims as noted by VS Naipaul in his book Among the Believers)

The search opened up a wealth of information which would forward to Ambassador KO


I had fun telling KO about the Persian influence on the "Indian food" as we know it in the west and also in India and East, such as Biryani and many of the Moghul dishes and also the Awadi cuisine of the courtiers of the Moghul emperors.

I am truly excited to know that a friend of mine would be the next ambassador from Malaysia to Iran. Iranian post graduate students are eager for knowledge and Malaysia has many temples of knowledge and Iranians are warmly welcomed in Malaysia.

There used to be three daily flights from Tehran to Kuala Lumpur before the Toman took a nose dive. Currently there is only once a week flight by Mahan Air, the pariah airline of the Aviation world which would cease its operations to KL as of next week. 

Good ways of flying between KL and Iran (Tehran or Mashhad)

Qatar Airways and any of the other Gulf airlines including Oman Air, Etihad, Emirates as well as Turkish airlines. 

I personally would prefer Qatar Airways .. but the time has not arrived yet for me to fly to Iran,

Thank you for this good news, KO.


I will end this blog with yet another photo of Mahathir with the new ambassador of Malaysia to IRAN.

vendredi 5 août 2022

SHABBAT SHALOM ESPECIALLY TO MY FRIENDS IN IRAN, MALAYSIA AND THE TURTLE ISLAND AS THE INDIANS CALL THEIR OCCUPIED COUNTRY

I was eager to light the candles tonight, as the sun sunk over a gorgeous horizon lit by the  candle  that is the Sun being passed over to the other side. (so that the children can enjoy the candlelight)

As the candle that you are, as you burn, you need to light other candles then there would be always light say the Shuar Indians of Ecuador 

La petite poete de cote sauvage is in London, my little brother is waiting for me in Haifa and a lovely Kerala Christian meal at the home of practicing and pious orthodox christians in Cochin..and there are always unexpected pleasures  ..


I had my MESA ready where in addition to the two candles welcoming Shabbat, there are other symbolic miscellany and those who needs to know will know. I had only one prayer, and that was for my Sister in Cuba.


i felt the breeze of many a breaths, from the hearts of my friends, stationary or about to travel..I wish them all  well.


To those who are in my thoughts, my mishpochah in Haifa, Portland, Boynton Beach and  the island of Cuba, the land of  Israel

friends with shared memories in parts of the USA , those who disappeared into the oblivion of Germany, Brasil, Iran, France ...

you are in my heart..

AS RUMI said 


We are here on this earth, according to my 8 year old philosopher niece, so that we can fill ourselves up with knowledge and help others. It is our Mitzvah, it is our Duty. 

I am never impressed with what you have done for yourself, but i am impressed with what you have done for others. 


SHABBAT SHALOM 

Did Antonin Artaud, who had heavily influenced Michel Foucault, describe one of his characters saying

I, said the man, am a Jew.

Ditto.

DJEM AL FINA YOU WILL FIND ME AT FRUIT COUNTER NO 43 OF CHEZ HAMID AS THE SUN SETS





 
enjoying the organized chaos that is so metaphoric of life, each night i wandered through the souks, giving a salaam here and a shalom there, in this ancient city. I felt i was with my brothers and sisters, the Berbers of Morocco





mardi 2 août 2022

THE WOODCARVER OF MARRAKECH A BERBER FRIEND OF ISRAEL, IN FACT MOST BERBERS SEEM TO LIKE ISRAEL AND JEWS

Berbers are good at wood carving and the above plaque caught my attention as I was wandering around the narrow streets near Riad58Blu. I walked in and the old man spoke very good french (better than mine) and we had a nice chat. The above woodwork which may be a hundred years old might end up in Mashhad in Iran.
 
I will meet Le petite poête de Côte Sauvage at the end of next month and also this was an occasion to introduce this artisan to the Hebrew alphabet. He worked non stop and by the time I returned from my foray into the early night at Djema al fina, the plaque was ready.

Marrakech is unbearably hot in Summer and if you do get there before I do in November, please stop by and say Hello 



THE BARBER OF MARRAKECH ..I MAY HAVE TO HOP ACROSS THE MEDITERRANEAN FOR MY NEXT HAIR CUT

 




Ishmael (are we not brothers? he of ishamael and I of Israel?) suggested this haircuttery very close to Riad58Blu within walking distance of Djema al Fina.

It turned out to be an experience. The barber who is a Berber (Morocco is predominantly Berber, occupied by the Arabs and forced to adopt their religion) who did not speak a single word of English or French. Fortunately, there was another one waiting for his services who could speak both French and Spanish so we were okay for communications.

Habibi shouted the barber in his coarse voice as he danced around the chair and the hair cut was good also. I liked it .

For my next hair cut, I will fly from Paris to Marrakech.

Flight 250 dollars 

Hair cut 5 dollars 

Friendship Priceless

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