FORT COCHIN A SUMPTUOUS FEAST FOR THE MIND, BODY AND THE
SOUL. ONE DAY IN FEBRUARY
My choices of places to stay at Fort Cochin
are the Old Lighthouse Bristow Hotel which is arguably the best situated hotel
in Fort Cochin facing the Arabian sea and the Niyati Boutique Hotel of my
friend Joseph C. I have been staying at the Bristow since I arrived from France
via Brussels few days ago. The manager Mr. Murugan and the Front desk manager
Mr Prince have been more than congenial.
I wake up late, just in time before
breakfast ends. There are lots of choices of European breakfast but I am partial
to the south Indian specialties. This morning began with a local delicacy
Uthappam, with sweet milky coffee, fruit platter. Days here have been long and
dinners finishing late in the evening and the long drive back to Ft Cochin from
Ernakulum, made convenient by Uber!
Soon after Thoufeek Zakariya, the Chef who
now works at Taj Dubai arrives. He is an amateur historian, self-taught, but
the best there is in the current climate of “tourist oriented shallow history”
by necessity and also foreign fake journalism parading as history. For nearly
three hours we discussed various innuendos of historical note of Fort Cochin
with an emphasis on Jewish History and fascination with the Portuguese maritime
expansion in Asia. Several points were under discussion, the possible Jewish
donor of wood to the Chempita Mosque? The site of arrival of Jews after Spanish
dispersion? The letter from Moses de Paiva who visited from Amsterdam? The rebirth
of the Kadavumbagam synagogue in Ernakulum, the history of the destruction of
the Black Jewish presence in Fort Cochin? We also touched upon Jewish
connections to Fort Cochin from Yemen, cities of Mesopotamia as well as that of
Abraham Ben Yiju, a Tunisian Jew who lived in Mangalore in 1248 CE. I gave him a coin from Morocco with Star of
David on it with 1289 AH written on it. I have to admire this man’s honesty,
analysis of the researched facts and refusal to accept heresy and more
importantly open mindedness in face of his personal pious conviction in Islam.
It was close to 2 pm when he left, I slowly
walked towards the Princess street, crossing Napier street on to the parade
ground, skirting St Francis church. Stopped at the IDIOM bookstore and chatted
with the genial owner manager.
My destination was Walton’ Homestay, a very
popular hostel with foreigners and friends of Mr. Christopher Walton whose
family has owned this Dutch era building now housing his namesake homestay,
much like a B and B. Fortunately for me, Mr. Walton was in his seat in the
office
It is my lucky day, I greeted him, as I
entered the office. I would label him a facilitator of knowledge and in the
American Indian way, a Hollow Bone through which spiritual messages flow. Today’s
conversation more than emphasized this designation of him. After the initial
conversation about the history of his city (in a way mine too), our
conversation took a deep plunge into spiritual topics. I can say without a
doubt that this afternoon that I spent in the company of Mr. Walton was one of
the most spiritual experiences for me. It transcended the normal level of
communication, to a higher level where dwells feelings in the forms of spirit
engaged thoughts and action. With his understanding of spirituality, not
related to his adherent religion, Christianity or Hinduism of India, but one of
a true universal nature, I was able to enter a world which I had not entered,
hallucinatory with deep knowledge, a connection to an eternal future based on
an endless past. It was an uplifting conversation, very gratifying and felt
light headed at the gravity of the conversation.
Such a conversation took place in Fort
Cochin is of special significance for me, as it binds me to this small pocket
of land , isolated as it is from rest of Kerala and India but connected to
unknown points across the ocean, on which it sits.
I walked back to the hotel, retracing my
steps, along the Parade Ground. I kept my gaze on the ground as I was trying to
fully comprehend what had happened at the office of Mr. Walton in Princess Street.
Soon afterwards, Mr. M and my Jewish
colleague Mr. E arrived from Ernakulum. Earlier in the day, Thoufeek had fed my
mind, afternoon saw my soul being filled by Mr. W.
The world of Mr. M completed the circle,
made the day whole. He and I share ideas of travel, food, journeys and
destinations. We talked about his educational projects in South Africa and he
invited me to come with him on one of his monthly visits. I would like to learn
more about his projects. He wanted me to taste typical syro-malabar Christian cuisine
but none was easily available today. The Christians here are observant of Lent,
thus we ended up in a pesco vegetarian restaurant, the Pavilion near Fort
Cochin, where I had mahi in a delicious curry, okra in spicy fried coating,
fish fingers to pick on. It was nice to see another aspect of the cultural
history of this place.
Each night I have been invited out to
dinner, last night it was Brindavan, a highly vegetarian restaurant; two
consecutive dinners at the two clubs, The Lotus Club and The Yacht Club.
Mr. M promised me a syro-malabar Christian meal
before I left. When I got back to the hotel I booked my connecting flight on
Sri Lankan airways to Colombo to connect with Etihad Airways flight to Abu
Dhabi and then to New York, where I would connect with a flight to Miami. I
look forward to my family and some dear friends in Miami before moving on to
the American Indians especially the UmonHon.
I AM EXTREMELY GRATEFUL FOR A DAY LIKE TODAY
GRATEFUL FOR THIS WORLD FULL OF PEOPLE LIKE THOSE WHO SHARED THEIR TIME WITH ME TODAY
I AM EXTREMELY GRATEFUL FOR A DAY LIKE TODAY
GRATEFUL FOR THIS WORLD FULL OF PEOPLE LIKE THOSE WHO SHARED THEIR TIME WITH ME TODAY
